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  #31  
Old 12th February 2017, 10:46 AM
bob orbell bob orbell is offline
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Default Re: Klp1

It does not matter that it is a cheap carbon track pot or a very expensive stepped pot, they will both do the same job, IE, passive connection from the source to the power amp's.
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  #32  
Old 12th February 2017, 10:47 AM
Richard Richard is offline
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Default Re: Klp1

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
There has been another option presented, after my initial inquiries into a Passive Preamp.
The suggestion has been made by my friend who kickstarted my return to HiFi a few weeks back.
He has referred to my potentiometer on the Monoblock, he has pointed out this can be exchanged for a very good Stepped Attenuator. This can be fed by a high quality RCA Female socket, then use OCC internal wiring. The exact attenuator model would need to be worked out, he feels this would remove the need for a off board pre amp, so a saving can be made , and a saving can be made by removing the need for another set of quality interconnect cables.
At the moment I spent a bit of time looking at mono stepped attenuators,
DACT, Khozmo, Acoustic Dimensions 41 Step. I also have the option of having one made to be a perfect suit to the monoblocks.
John, the best option on the monoblocs (sound quality-wise) would be no control. Find out their sensitivity then drive them from a suitable pre.
If you want to build a passive pre for the K5881 or the monoblocs (if they are 500mV or greater sensitivity) then one is easily built as a separate unit, with selector if needed, and positioned close to the power amps.
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  #33  
Old 12th February 2017, 11:57 AM
John Caswell John Caswell is offline
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Default Re: Klp1

Hi all,
Bob wrote, "It does not matter that it is a cheap carbon track pot or a very expensive stepped pot"
Actually it will as the more expensive pots and certainly the switched attenuators will be have much closer matching between the sections. I have had stereo pots so poorly matched there was a noticeable difference at low to normal listening levels.
I concur whole heartedly with Richard's comments, a good Pre, with low output impedance (my words), fed into a high impedance input is always the best way to go. This is simply down to good engineering practice.
There will, of course, be others that disagree with this, but they can't help being wrong

John
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  #34  
Old 12th February 2017, 12:21 PM
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pre65 pre65 is offline
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Default Re: Klp1

I certainly would not want the hassle of having to adjust two separate pots everytime I needed to adjust the volume.

Unless you only ever use one source a pre-amp (active by my preference) is the most sensible option.

I have a stepped attenuator on my Audionote copy pre amp and although it works well I sometimes find each step too large (not by much), and one day I will replace it with a Tocos pot.

PS. JohnG, did you get the Email I sent in response to your public message ?
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  #35  
Old 12th February 2017, 01:43 PM
JohnG JohnG is offline
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Default Re: Klp1

Loving this thread, great input from everybody
I,m so out of touch with some of the most simple technical issues
Anyway Texas are belting it out through the Tannoy M2.5s and it is bliss.
I've put the Cambridge Audio Azur 540c directly into the 845, the sound stage definitely changed and vocals become more forward.
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  #36  
Old 16th February 2017, 11:12 AM
Gerry B Gerry B is offline
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Default Re: Klp1

Hi John,
Just in case you are tempted by a simple option, I've listed my WD Pre3/PSU/PhonoS on the for sale section!
After improving the earthing this was very quiet on my 300Bpp.
regards
Gerry
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